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Big Cat Rescue's Exotic Cat Standards

 

This video shows facilities that are currently licensed and approved by the USDA and the Florida Wildlife Conservation Commission that have been operating at this level or worse for more than 10 years and yet are still open to the public.  This shows precisely why we need better standards.  Play 6 minute video HERE.

For general Sanctuary Standards click HERE.

 

The family Felidae

small to medium (under 60 lbs)

large cats (over 60 lbs)

Defined as the following species:

Small Cats

 

• Rusty-spotted cat (Prionailurusrubiginosus)
• Flat-headed cat (Prionailurusplaniceps)
• Black-footed cat (Felis nigripes)
• Kodkod (Oncifelis guigna)
• Oncilla/tiger cat (Leopardus tigrina)
• Sand cat (Felis margarita)
• Pallas' cat (Otocolobus manul)
• Domestic cat (Felis catus)
• Margay (Leopardus wiedii)
• Marbled cat (Pardofelis marmorata)
• Geoffroy's cat (Oncifelis geoffroyi)
• Jaguarundi (Herpailurus yagouroundi)
• Pampas cat (Oncifelis colocolo)
• Leopard cat (Prionailurus bengalensis)
• Wildcat (Felis silvestris)
• Mountain cat (Oraeilurus jacobita)

 

Buy Big Cat Auto Accessories

Medium Cats

 

• Canadian lynx (Lynx Canadensis)
• Bobcat (Lynx rufus)
• African golden cat (Profelis aurata)
• Spanish lynx (Lynx pardinus)
• Fishing cat (Prionailurus viverrinus)
• Ocelot (Leopardus pardalis)
• Asian golden cat (Catopuma temmincki)
• Caracal (Caracal caracal)
• Jungle cat (Felis chaus)
• Serval (Leptailurus serval)
• Eurasian lynx (Lynx lynx)

 

Large cats (weighing more than 60 lbs.)

 

• Lion (Panthera leo)
• Tiger (P. tigris)
• Leopard (P. pardalis)
• Snow leopard (Uncia uncial)
• Jaguar (P. onca)
• Cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus)
• Clouded leopard (Neofelis nebulosa)
• Puma (Puma concolor)

 

And all subspecies and hybrids thereof

 

Species Needs

In the wild, all species of small cats are more or less solitary, i.e. intolerant towards adults of the same sex, and exhibit a spatially and temporally dispersed social system.

With one exception, (lions) large felids are solitary carnivores functioning at or near the top of their trophic level.

Felids are predators relying on cover for survival.

Leopard, (P. pardalis); Snow leopard, (Uncia uncial); Jaguar, (P. onca); Cheetah, (Acinonyx jubatus); Clouded leopard, (Neofelis nebulosa); Puma, (Puma concolor) are more secretive animals when compared to lions and tigers and require ample areas of cover.

Felids are inquisitive, exploratory and in the wild are particularly active at night, dawn and dusk.

Felids are primarily carnivorous.

Felids are frequently avid climbers and, if clawed, need trees or wood to shed and sharpen their claws.

Enclosure Requirements

Substrate

Enclosures for felids shall primarily consist of a mix of natural substrates (e.g., soil, sand, grass, natural rock) that provide good drainage and have an area(s) that can be readily cleaned and sanitized for feeding and resting.

Size & Complexity

• Enclosures shall provide sufficient mix of cover such as brush, tall grasses, trees, den areas, elevated areas and opportunities to climb. Enclosures shall provide ledges or perches for sleeping and resting.
• Enclosure size for one or two small animals shall be 400 square feet at a minimum. Each additional animal requires an increase of 25% of the original floor space, (ie. for two animals, the minimum space is 500 square feet).
• Enclosure size for one or two medium animals should be 600 square feet at a minimum. Each additional animal requires an increase of 25% of the original floor space.
• Enclosure size for one large animal weighing over 60 lbs., should be 1200 square feet at a minimum. Each additional animal requires an increase of 25% of the original floor space.
• Of equal importance to enclosure size is the complexity and variability of the enclosure.
• Enclosures shall be designed to allow terrestrial species the ability to utilize the vertical component of the enclosure by providing aerial pathways.

Enclosure Construction & Elements

• Most felids are adept climbers and can easily scale a chain link fence and jump from trees and branches to clear a fence. Enclosures shall be designed and constructed to securely contain the species contained therein.
• Some felids may dig underneath a fence line so for these cats that are individually prone to digging the enclosure perimeters shall have either a concrete footing, horizontal protective mat around the entire enclosure or chain link fence that is buried at a depth sufficient to prevent escape given the composition of the natural substrate.
• Dens shall be provided and shall be dry, and of sufficient size to make the animals feel secure. In enclosures with multiple animals, there shall be one den space for each animal in the enclosure.
• Some felids enjoy swimming, and pools of an appropriate size and depth should be incorporated into outdoor enclosures where possible.
• Arboreal cats as defined herein, shall have places to climb in order to meet their spatial needs and places to lounge above the terrain to meet their emotional needs.

 

Safety

 

 

• The aggressive nature of most felids, and their physical strength and capabilities, demand that care-givers take extreme care when designing enclosures for any felid species, regardless of their size, to reduce the risk of escape or reaching through enclosure fencing.
• For small or medium felids, enclosure fencing shall be least 8 ft. high with the top protected by either electric wire or a 45-degree 2 ft. inward-facing overhang. Additional local and state requirements may apply.
• For large felids, enclosure walls shall either be 12 feet high and be some combination of vertical wall with at least a 2 foot back-arm at a 45 degree angle, or be provided with complete tops and at least 10 feet high, or double rows of hot wire will be sufficient for lions and tigers who are not avid climbers. The cage shall be constructed of no less than 9 gauge wire for large felids and no less than 12 gauge wire for small to medium felids.
• As many felids, especially tigers and jaguars, enjoy water, water moats shall not be used to contain felids.
• Shift or secondary holding areas shall be provided to allow for safe movement of animals from their primary enclosure into a secure area for cleaning, feeding, maintenance, medical and other necessary procedures.
• There shall be one holding area for each cat. For small cats, each shift area shall be no less than 2 feet high with a minimum of 4 square feet of floor space. For medium cats, each shift area shall be no less than 2 feet high with a minimum of 6 square feet of floor space. For large cats each shift area shall be no less than 3 feet by 6 feet. Holding or shift areas shall only be used for temporary confinement of animals and for periods not to exceed four hours unless under the direct supervision of a veterinarian for medical purposes.
• At a minimum, each enclosure shall be equipped with a double door system to prevent escape and the cages should be kept locked. No cages shall be adjoining unless adequate provisions have been made to keep the animals from reaching through or getting a tail or ear into the adjoining cage to prevent injury.

 

Sanitation

 

• Natural substrates shall be cleaned and maintained according to the Animal Waste Removal and Sanitation Plan.

 

Temperature/humidity/ventilation

 

 

• Some tropical species of small cats as well as temperate ones can tolerate a fairly wide range of temperatures, but it is necessary to acclimate them slowly to lower temperature ranges.
• Although large felids may originate from all manner of climates, most are tolerant of wide temperature extremes, at least during the daylight hours. When acclimated, most adults require only unheated shelter at night.
• Clouded leopards are more sensitive to cold temperatures and shall be protected from cold temperatures.
• If temperature extremes exceed those of a felid’s native habitat, then shelters shall be provided with space heaters for use in winters and cooling systems for summer to bring the ambient temperature into accordance with the cat’s native habitat. Heaters and cooling systems shall be properly designed and situated to prevent destruction by the felid.

 

 

Food/Water/Feeding

• Felid diets shall be based upon commercially available beef or horse-based diets or custom-made diets which contain all necessary vitamin and minerals. Custom-made diets shall be reviewed by the attending veterinarian and/or veterinary nutritionist.
• Whole animal carcasses (rodents, rabbits, or fowl) may be substituted as feed on occasion to vary the diet and shall be limited to fresh or thawed carcasses, the remains of which shall be removed prior to deterioration or spoilage. All food shall be handled according to the guidelines set forth in the USDA Handbook.
• Diets containing high percentages of all muscle and organ meat or high percentages of fowl by-products such as chicken or turkey necks are nutritionally unbalanced and shall be avoided due to inadequate levels of vitamins and minerals.
• Communal feeding is discouraged for most felid species to prevent aggression or other dominant behavior among animals. If communal feeding does occur, weights and conditions of all animals shall be closely monitored.
• Large felids may be fasted one day per week. Felids weighing less than 15 lbs. shall not be fasted.
• Bones, especially those from joints or knuckles, should be given at least once a week.
• Feeding large felids carcasses obtained from road kills or donations is not recommended because of the potential for contamination; and use of feed animals selected from such sources shall be inspected by the attending veterinarian to insure they are free of disease.
• Some felid species routinely defecate in the water. Raising the primary drinking water bowl above the tail of the cat may help prevent contamination of water source. The water bowls should be cleaned daily and kept full at all times. The bowls must be species appropriate in size and construction so that the cat doesn’t chew up and digest a plastic bowl. Cool fresh water shall be available for the cat to drink at all times.
• Milk substitutes used to hand rear infants shall be specifically formulated for felids and approved by the veterinary staff. Milk replacers shall contain appropriate levels of vitamins, minerals and other ingredients to prevent developmental and other medical problems. Kittens and cubs should never be born in a sanctuary, but if they are, every attempt should be made for the mother to raise her own offspring. Proof of the cat’s inability to raise her own offspring must be in writing by the attending veterinarian.

Social, Psychological, Physical and Behavioral Well-Being

 

• Where a microchip transponder is used as a means of identification, it shall be placed at the base of the left ear.
• The unique veterinary concerns for felids shall be addressed by the veterinarian and shall include:
• Preventative heartworm medication shall be given to all felids housed in areas where this parasite is prevalent, and an occult heartworm test performed periodically.
• Periodic (at least yearly) fecal examinations shall be required to check for parasite infestation, and appropriate parasite therapy instituted as necessary.
• Unless recommended differently by the attending veterinarian, all felids shall receive annual prophylactic vaccinations for protection against feline distemper (panleukopenia), rhinotracheitis, and calicivirus (FVRCP), annually. Only Killed Virus (KV) products shall be used. Felids shall be vaccinated against rabies annually using KV products. Felids are also susceptible to non-specific diseases such as tuberculosis and should tested when practical
• Kittens shall be vaccinated with KV FVRCP (fel-o-vax) vaccine at 6-8 weeks, and receive a series of four immunizations every three weeks as well as when 6 and 12 months of age. A killed rabies vaccine shall be given at 4 months of age and annually thereafter.
• Fleas can be a problem in some areas and shall be controlled by spraying the enclosure with an approved commercial insecticide. Topical insecticides as approved by the attending veterinarian as safe for feline species may also be used if necessary.
• Some felids may benefit from companionship with other felids, even if this is not natural for them in the wild. Newly introduced animals may fight to establish the hierarchy. All introductions must be done carefully and animals must be closely monitored during the introduction phase.
• Each enclosure shall have an accessible device to provide physical stimulation or manipulation compatible with the species. Such device shall be non injurious, and may include, but is not limited to, boxes, balls, bones, barrels, drums, rawhide, pools, etc.
• Felids are intelligent animals and easily bored. Enrichment that is appropriate to the species shall be provided no less than weekly in a form that is different from their daily use of toys and cage furnishings.

 

Handling/restraint

 

• Large felids shall not be handled except for medical purposes.

 

 

Quarantine/isolation

 

• New felids arriving at the sanctuary shall be quarantined for a minimum of 30 days.
• Footbaths shall be used prior to entering and exiting all quarantine felid enclosures, or areas containing quarantined animals. Each shall be filled with a disinfectant and its use strictly adhered to by all personnel.
• Upon arrival, all felids shall undergo quarantine according to protocol as established by the attending veterinarian. All felids shall be tested for Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV), Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP), Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV), and Toxoplasmosis prior to placing the animal with or near other felids.

 

 

For general Sanctuary Standards click HERE.

Small Cats

 

Prionailurusrubiginosus Rusty-spotted cat arboreal

Prionailurusplaniceps Flat-headed cat terrestrial

Felis nigripes Black-footed cat terrestrial

Oncifelis guigna Kodkod terrestrial

Leopardus tigrina Oncilla/tiger cat arboreal

Felis margarita Sand cat terrestrial

Otocolobus manul Pallas' cat arboreal

Felis catus Domestic cat terrestrial

Leopardus wiedii Margay arboreal

Pardofelis marmorata Marbled cat arboreal

Oncifelis geoffroyi Geoffroy's cat arboreal

Herpailurus yagouroundi Jaguarundi terrestrial

Oncifelis colocolo Pampas cat terrestrial

Prionailurus bengalensis Leopard cat arboreal

Felis silvestris Wildcat terrestrial

Oraeilurus jacobita Mountain cat terrestial

 

 

Medium Cats

 

Lynx canadensis Canadian lynx terrestrial

Lynx rufus Bobcat arboreal

Profelis aurata African golden cat terrestrial

Lynx pardinus Spainish lynx terrestrial

Prionailurus viverrinus Fishing cat terrestrial

Leopardus pardalis Ocelot arboreal

Catopuma temmincki Asian golden cat terrestrial

Caracal caracal Caracal terrestrial

Felis chaus Jungle cat terrestrial

Leptailurus serval Serval terrestrial

Lynx lynx Eurasian lynx terrestrial

 

 

Large cats (weighing more than 60 lbs.)

 

Lion (Panthera leo) terrestrial

Tiger (P. tigris) terrestrial

Leopard (P. pardalis) arboreal

Snow leopard (Uncia uncial) arboreal

Jaguar (P. onca) arboreal

Cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus) terrestrial

Clouded leopard (Neofelis nebulosa) arboreal

Puma, Cougar, Mountain lion (Puma concolor) arboreal

 

How can you tell a real sanctuary from a fake?

It’s actually easier than telling a diamond from a cubic zirconium because if you look at them, under any light at all, they are easy to tell apart. The problem is that the fake ones insist on keeping you in the dark. Some legitimate sanctuaries believe that their animals should never have to see humans, other than for their daily feeding and cleaning, and are closed to the public. Pseudo sanctuaries use this same tactic to keep the public from seeing the deplorable conditions that their animals are kept in.

Fake sanctuaries often have wonderful web sites full of self serving documentation about all the wonderful ways your donations save lives. They rely heavily on direct mail campaigns and paid solicitors. New laws have enabled these mail houses to front the costs and then pay themselves, exorbitantly, from the proceeds making it that much easier for pseudo sanctuaries to solicit funds. This means that even less of your donation is actually going to the cause (assuming any of it was before).

There are a few fool proof ways to know if the sanctuary you support is a real sanctuary or a fake:

Real sanctuaries don’t breed or buy animals. If there are babies, they were probably bought or born there. People don’t get rid of them until they are too big to handle. If there is a baby, ask how it got there and ask for proof.

Real sanctuaries don’t exploit animals. They don’t take dangerous animals out in public on leashes or in cages. Many pseudo sanctuaries do and they say they are educating the public that these animals don’t make good pets, but when people see that they can be walked on leashes or taken out in public to be shown off or to make money, then they will want to buy one of their own. It is the equivalent of saying to your audience, “Do as I say, and not as I do.”

Real sanctuaries adhere to the law. They will be licensed by the state, and usually by the USDA. They will be classified by the IRS as a non profit 501 c 3 charity. They will be licensed by the state to solicit donations, and every piece of solicitation that you see, from print to web site, will have documentation of the fact that they are so licensed. Some states, such as Florida, go a step further and require that the percentage that goes to the program services of the cause be included in all solicitation materials. Big Cat Rescue spends 100% of its donations on program services (ie: taking care of the cats).

Real sanctuaries meet the highest sanctuary standards. Fake sanctuaries will say that they don’t like the politics, or it’s a waste of donor’s money, or that they don’t want someone else telling them how to take care of their animals, but none of those are valid reasons for not meeting the highest sanctuary standards. Many fake sanctuaries are licensed by their state and by USDA and will tell you that these governing bodies are the watchdogs of the industry, but neither USDA nor any state law defines a sanctuary as being a place where animals are not bred, sold or exploited. USDA’s standards only require that an animal’s cage be big enough that he can stand up and turn around in it.

The Association of Sanctuaries only accredits real sanctuaries. It only costs $150.00 per year to be a member and the application is only four pages long, so it is not a huge investment of time and money. Accreditation is only granted after an on-site inspection if the facility meets the high standards of care and responsibility. The facility must continue to maintain those standards and be re-inspected regularly to insure compliance. Membership provides real sanctuaries with a method of demonstrating their excellence to the public and donors. Membership also enables small sanctuaries across the nation to unite as one voice for the animals because The Association of Sanctuaries is a member for the Captive Wild Animal Protection Coalition which is made up of 20 huge organizations including the Humane Society of the United States, The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, The Animal Protection Institute, Peta and many more.

Real sanctuaries spend your donated dollars on program services. This means they spend the money on the things that made you select them as your charity. GuideStar.com lists all non profit organizations and posts their tax returns so that you can see how the money is being spent. If you type in the key word “animal” almost 15,000 organizations are listed, but only 23 of them are accredited by The Association of Sanctuaries. The industry standard allows that charities spend up to 35% of their donations on soliciting and still be considered reputable. A search of the 990s on GuideStar will show that fake sanctuaries often spend as much as 75% of their donations on raising more money. In almost all of these cases you will see that the biggest expense in the pseudo sanctuary is in providing a salary to the founder. Big Cat Rescue’s founder never has and never will be paid from your donations.

As in every aspect of life, the truth is out there. With the right tools you can discover it for yourself.

By: Carole Baskin, Founder Big Cat Rescue

12802 Easy Street Tampa, FL 33625 813.920.4130 fax 885.4457

Info@BigCatRescue.org

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Big Cat Rescue is an educational sanctuary and a home for more than 100 big cats  12802 Easy St. Tampa, FL 33625 813.920.4130 Info@BigCatRescue.org